| Author |
Message |
    
Unit199
Intermediate Member
Username: Unit199
Post Number: 364
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 7:13 am: | 
|
I have a couple of 80 watters installed and have had one in the mobile in a GRANTXL for about four years and have never had a problem. I also have the other one in a UNIDEN PC68XL with no problems. If I had the 200 WATTER and had heating problems, I would install a small fan with temperature control for it to come on when it got to a certain temp. That takes care of cooling it!!!!!!
HARVE
UNIT199 |
Chad
Senior Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 1132
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 10:34 pm: |
|
I've been playing with a 60 watter, well it's rated at 60 watts  It can easily be sinked to the bottom of the radio (has stand-off's built in to do so) BUT insulators MUST be used with sink compound.
I backed it way down so it runs comfortable.
Of course this is for experimental/educational purposes only.
Chad |
Chad
Senior Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 1135
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Friday, October 06, 2006 - 9:33 am: |
|
The 60 watter gets HOT when run hard! Nothing a low profile heatsink and small fan can't cure though
Chad |
Slugo4449
Intermediate Member
Username: Slugo4449
Post Number: 115
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, October 08, 2006 - 1:04 pm: |
|
I checked with an RM supplier and he explained that in the past the 60 watt board worked on SSB by adding another switch.
Now none of the boards are recommended for SSB. Just AM and FM modes.
Now that's a shame!
Marty
KG6QKJ |
Chad
Senior Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 1146
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 10, 2006 - 10:38 pm: |
|
So Decided to play with the KL "60 watt" stinger board tonight to get a feel for the lineup. I was disappointed.
First off the manual stated to affix it somewhere in the radio and don't let it touch ANYTHING! Boo-Loney! That thing gets sizzling hot in seconds! So I sinked it to the chassis, the chassis got so hot that I was fearing the paint job. So I stuck it on a LARGE chunk of aluminum and continued my discovery process. AND to boot.. I forgot… If you hang it in there and “don’t let it touch anything” it will oscillate like a big dog and stick on key. IT MUST BE MOUNTED WITH APPROPRIATE INSULATORS!
I lowered the key of a Cobra 29LTD classic to 2 watts and that was not enough (I was going for a true 4:1 ratio) It still wanted to key WAY too high. With the limited parts I had on hand I could not get the key low enough to make it operate properly.
Sooo power output.... It made about 25 watts MAYBE 30 with a 14V input voltage, it was far from clean when stressed. There is no way this thing will make 60 watts and stay in tact for more than a second.
Sorry for the disappointing news.
Chad |
Unit199
Intermediate Member
Username: Unit199
Post Number: 381
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 3:33 pm: |
|
As with any amplifier, when did you see one that put out what it is rated for??? If they have been moded they might.
HARVE
UNIT199 |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 906
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 8:44 am: |
|
HEY CHAD!!!!!
I'm playing with a PILE of KL-60w stingers.
In fact I've been playing ALL night. I have 6 at my disposal along with various Cobra's to install them in for a friend. So far not ONE is working correctly. First one installed in a soundtracker 148 was a dud out of the gate. The second one I tried installing does exactly what you are talking about....self oscillation big time and will not unkey unless power is removed.
Truly does seem like I'm introducing too much DK as you stated. Also as you yourself had issues with...I cannot lower the DK much more than 1.5.
The Cobras I have are:Soundtracker 148GTL and 25,29ltd, two 21's and a Uniden PC76. I do happen to have a pile of 220uV caps along with 150-200ohm resistors SO a swing kit may be in order to lower the DK to around 3/4-1w.
Back to your (my) oscillation problem..HOW DID YOU STOP IT!?
I'll tune from there but what needs to be grounded to cure the fact that it won't unkey?
And yes...that little on board fuse gets HOT as does the little mofset!
2w input is giving me around 10DK with amp on and sounds like POO!
Any help would be appreciated!
Hank CEF559 |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 907
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 4:35 pm: |
|
Forgive my reading in haste!
I re-installed the stinger in the PC76 WITH an isolator under the mofset and screwed the stinger at the speaker location. Once the bottom cover was reinstalled thereby grounding the board to the radio I lost the oscillation issue.
Only problem NOW seems to be getting a low enough deadkey. Right now the lowest obtainable is around 2.5w which is giving me a 15DK with neg swing of about a watt.
Swing kit with 3/4-1w DK on the way and we'll go from there.
ANY input will be SERIOUSLY taken into consideration! 
RM really needs to rewrite their instructions!
Hank |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 3412
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 8:24 pm: |
|
they did rewrite 'em, hank, in ENGLISH! the original ITALIAN directions for a kl1000, translated into ENGLISH by a HAM, made MUCH more sense then the english version supplied with the amp! i had the same problems with the ORIGINAL stinger boards, sometimes they worked, sometimes they wouldn't. |
