| Author |
Message |
    
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 2
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2006 - 2:05 pm: | 
|
Hi i have a problem with my grant xl the modulation is very low on it and i am not sure as to why my signal is good but the mod is not and it is the samr when i change mics . So if any one has any ideas that would be helpful .Thanks Guardian |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1792
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2006 - 11:23 pm: |
|
guardian, give us a little background on your radio and your situation.
did you buy it used?
how long ago?
modded by someone else?
modded by you?
did you do something to it and now it doesnt work?
did it stop working while being operated, or did you turn it on one day and find that it didnt work?
also, dont forget to include EVERY peice of equipment you have inline and how they are setup.
the more detail, history, and information you can provide, no matter how insignificant it may seem to you, will greatly increase the chances of you getting the answer you need faster and without too much headache.
tell us the whole story,
lie down if you need to,LOL
matt |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1443
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Monday, June 12, 2006 - 12:25 pm: |
|
If your running the radio in a vehicle make sure the positive and negative power wires are running direct to the battery and the conections are tight and clean. Check your coax and connectors for any bad spots or corosion. Also inspect the antenna. Try a different antenna and look for improvments.
Realize also that you must speak into the mic very close touching your lip for optimum pickup. hope I could help, other that that is it possible someone tried to mod the radio? A final may be getting weak.Maybe it needs a transmitter alighnment |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2967
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, June 12, 2006 - 4:46 pm: |
|
my busy schedule & construction mess prevents me....should nobody else resolve the situation, i'll take a stab....eventually  |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 3
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, June 12, 2006 - 5:03 pm: |
|
It was turned on and it lost mod people around me can hear me but others say that my voice is soft and my signal is good. I have a watt meter swr combo in line with a TX100 amp.I tried changing mics but there was no differents ialso have the same thing wrong with my sears roadtalk 40 base mobile but with it there is no tX at all recieves fine .I thought the aduio amp might have gone out on the grant xl not sure though. |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1795
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, June 12, 2006 - 8:33 pm: |
|
i dont think the problem with your roadtalker is the same as this one.
just going by what others say about your audio is not a good enough indication that something is wrong with your radio.
i doubt anything went bad in the radio, but its possible.
its just not that common for the modulation to just get weaker.
just in case, you didnt accidentally turn the DYNAMIKE control down did you?
make sure it is all the way clockwise.
and remember, you should only be about 2-3 inches away from the mic when speaking. you start losing audio power rapidly after that.
are there any changes in the S-meter movement when you talk? like did it used to move more than it does now?
really, i would just get some second and third opinions before i went digging in the radio.
what is the wattage coming out of the radio (amp out of line)?
dead key and swing.
good luck,
matt |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 4
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 2:14 am: |
|
Hello Matt the s meter on the grant xl with out the amp inline swings backwards and and the dynamic i can set it all the way up or have it half way and there is no change also the power has been turned down for the ampso i dont knwowhat went wrong. Doug |
Cdn_superpower
Member
Username: Cdn_superpower
Post Number: 60
Registered: 6-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 6:35 am: |
|
Swings backwards ?
That's not good, sounds like a crappy patch cord or mis alignment ? |
Bc910
Advanced Member
Username: Bc910
Post Number: 723
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 6:55 am: |
|
I think you may have an swr issue...
try a different antenna. I know you said you had a swr meter, but try it any way, get rid of all jumpers, hook radio directly up to new antenna I bet it will work, then start adding stuff 1 by 1. first your meter if everything is still good then add the amp if still good add any thing else you may have then if all is still good switch back to the old ant. this way you can find out exactly what piece of the equipment is the problem.
There is absolutely NO reason to have ANY back swing EVER especially when the d/k has been turned down
BC |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 5
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:50 pm: |
|
Hi I did not even think to try a different antenna so i will give that a try and see if that works and then i will let you all know. Doug |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 6
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 11:02 am: |
|
Ok I will give that a try and see what happens and I will keep u all updated as to the problem. Thanks for the ideas.Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1802
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 12:55 am: |
|
no time tonight, will post more tomorrow.
do all the troubleshooting you can, change jumpers around, use a diff. antenna, etc...
if the problem just has to be inside the radio, then there are a few things to try.
re tune the TX cans for voice peaks instead of max. deadkey would be the first step.
do you know exactly HOW the power was lowered for use with the amp?
what did they turn/remove?
to me it sounds like downward modulation.
more tomorrow,
matt |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 7
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 4:00 pm: |
|
There is a 20k pod that was put in where the control pod was. I need to wait til the rain stops to change antennas |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1804
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 10:10 pm: |
|
i think you mean POT, which is short for potentiometer, which is a variable resistor. (VR)
do you mean that the AM power control has been moved to the front panel?
so you can turn it up or down from outside the radio?
im not saying this is what you did, but there are two different likely causes, and each would mean a different place to look for a solution.
i'll give you both scenarios, you pick one.
1. the radio was peaked by tuning all transmit coils inside the radio to maximum deadkey. (meaning no modulation applied to mic while tuning)
if this is the case, the cure is to go back and retune them for a peak reading while modulated.
say, "AHHHHH" into the mic in an even tone while tuning the transmit coils for max PEP watts reading on wattmeter or radio's S-meter. (wattmeter preferred)
2. this just happened all of a sudden, most likely while the radio was on. (maybe not noticed until the next time you turned the radio on)
this most likely means that the driver and/or final transistor is blown.
that usually happens when the AM power control is moved to the front of the radio and played with too much; mostly on the clockwise side.
also, the radio is old by now, and even radios with minimal power out can have old parts blow.
whichever one sounds like a good place to start, let us know, and we can take the next step.
im sure there are many more possibilities for why this is occuring, im just playing the odds.
(im from vegas, i cant help it!)
good luck,
matt |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 8
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 10:22 am: |
|
Ok thank you Matt we dont have a repair shop up here in spokane any more the only one closed last year so if aany work needs done u try urself or send it to the manufatuer. Doug |
Guardian
New member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 9
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 5:14 pm: |
|
Hey Matt do u know which one is the driver final is it the 1969 or the 2166 just was wanting to know |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1809
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 11:04 pm: |
|
the driver is the 2SC2166.
the final is the 2SC1969.
how many dead key watts is the radio putting out now?
what is your SWR?
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 10
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 8:01 pm: |
|
ok Matt is changed both the driver and the final and i am still having the same thing happen so i guess it is time for a new radio . I dont think it would be the antenna because i still am receiveing and i dont know if a penitrator can go out i might try my Antron 99 and see what that does. Any more help would be great . Thanks Matt. Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1812
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 10:03 pm: |
|
have you tried retuning the TX coils?
you need to use a plastic tuning tool; a jewelers screwdriver will not work, and may break the ferrite slug.
hook up a wattmeter between the radio and the dummy load.
radio should be on ch.19
1.radio at ch.19 AM
key the mic, and say "aaahhhhh" in a steady natural voice tone. using a two tone generator here can be very helpful. there are numerous designs around on the net, and they are simple to build. i use one. do not tune the coils for max. deadkey, as this will weaken the modulation to a great extent, sometimes making the output power actually DECREASE when you are speaking. (downward modulation)
while speaking into the mic, adjust L47,48,46,45, and L38 in that order for max. peak (modulated) power. on one or more of these coils, you will notice that there is a waxy substance covering the opening. carefully pick this away, and then, right before you make your adjustment, put your soldering iron on the ferrite core for just two seconds. be careful not to melt the plastic threads on the edges. this will allow the core to turn easily. if you dont do this, you can break the core, and then you'll have to scrounge another one from a different radio which may or may not work as well. be careful, dont turn anything fast, and never force anything.
also, when replacing the driver and final, you need to rebias them.
that means adjusting the VR's that are right in front of the driver and final for the proper mA value.
NEVER turn these all the way up looking for more power.
here is how to do it. be careful, testing for current (amps) and voltage (volts) is not done the same way.
in testing for voltage, you put the red lead on the positive side, and the black lead on the negative side.
when testing for current, you put the meter "in line" with the positive lead.
meaning that if the positive wire were cut in the middle, the red lead would go to one side and the black lead to the other side.
if you do it wrong, you can blow the fuse in the meter.
here is how to rebias your new driver and final:
you will see a wire coming out of the PC board right in front of the driver, its usually purple or green, but might not be.
follow this wire to the other end, over by the big transformer in the rear right section of the radio.
there should be a connector on the end of the wire, and you can just pull on the connector and the wire will pull off of the pin it was pushed onto.
look at the now empty pin. it should be labled TP8. (test point 8)
if you see TP7 then you have the wire for the final. put it back and do the driver first.
then do the final which will be the wire coming off of the PC board right in front of the final, and will be going to TP7.
ch.19USB mike gain at minimum.
insert DC ammeter at TP8. (driver bias)
this means that you need your DC volmeter set to milliamps on a scale that can read 200ma (milliamps).
this hook up is not the same as voltage testing! when you test for current, you hook the voltmeter in series with the lead under test.
so, pull the wire off of TP8, and clip the negative lead to the end. touch the positive lead to TP8. key the mic and adjust VR9 for 30ma.
reconnect the wire to TP8.
ch.19USB mike gain at minimum
pull wire off of TP7 and clip negative lead of voltmeter to it.
touch positive lead to TP7.
key the mic and adjust VR8 for 60ma.
reconnect the wire to TP7.
if this doesnt do it, then you are looking at troubleshooting individual components, and that can be very time consuming and cause many a headache.
i wish you luck,
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 11
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 11:58 am: |
|
Thank you Matt i hope i can figure it out before i go out and buy a new radio .Doug |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 12
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 10:41 pm: |
|
hey Matt do u have the mic wiring for a midland 77-147 mobile i picked one up and the was no mic so i am trying to wire one to it. Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1844
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 11:38 pm: |
|
gosh no, i have never owned or operated a midland.
something about the numbers instead of the name turned me off.
go figure.
they made aLOT of radios!
BUT!
give a man a fish and all that blah blah blah...
here's how to figure out the mic wiring on this, and pretty much any other radio you come across.
first thing to do is figure out which wire is the shield, or ground wire. this is the braid that is wrapped around one of the mic wires in its cord.
to do this, turn off the radio and disconnect the power source.
set your VOM (voltmeter) to the continuity setting. (the one that beeps when you touch the probes together)
if you have the analog kind with a needle; set it to resistance, touch the probes together, and calibrate the needle so it sits right on the mark on the far right side.
ok, touch one lead to any one of the tuning cans in the radio. touch it to the metal part.
touch the other lead to the pins on the mic connector on the radio until you find the one that makes it beep or moves the needle all the way over.
now draw a diagram and label the pins as if you were looking at the back of the radio's mic connector. (the part inside the radio)
now its time to turn the radio back on.
set the volume at less than half way. (i know there is no sound at this time)
get a length of wire (less than 12") and strip the ends.
touch one end to the ground pin you just found, and touch the other end to the other pins until you hear noise out of the speaker.
this is your receive pin. mark it on your diagram.
one of the pins in your attempt to find the receive pin should have caused the meter to move all the way over as if you had keyed the mic.
(you did sort of!)
that is your transmit pin. mark it on your diagram.
the other pin should have caused a loud squeal in the speaker, that is your audio pin.
if it is a five pin connector, then it has an extra ground wire on it, and will have a corresponding ground wire on the mic.
if your mic only has four wires on it, dont worry about this pin.
if it has more pins than that, then they are for channel switching in the original mic, and can be disregarded also.
now you should have a diagram with pins labled on it, GROUND, RECEIVE, TRANSMIT, AUDIO. (maybe ground #2)
look at the mic connector from the inside the radio side, and make sure you have it right.
you see, by doing the diagram this way, it is set up perfectly for the solder side of the mic connector you are about to wire up.
neat eh!?
ok, now for the mic, this is pretty simple.
open up the back of the mic and find the sheild braid that is wrapped around a wire.
that is your ground.
the wire that it is wrapped around will be the audio wire (ALWAYS!)
now look at the switch.
the receive wire will be the one closest to the mic button.
the transmit wire will be the one on the other side of the switch.
you will see two small wires that go to the mic element.
dont get them confused with the wires you are working with. dont do anything with them.
if there is one more wire that goes to the mic cord, this will be the ground #2 wire.
solder it up and try 'er out!
if you can hear audio from the speaker when the mic is unplugged, then the radio is relay switched and the wiring is even easier.
no receive wire to worry about.
just find ground, transmit and audio and thats it.
the audio wire will always be the one with the braid wrapped around it, and that braid will always be the ground.
good luck,
i hope you catch some nice fish,
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 13
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 11:36 am: |
|
Hey Matt do u know what final or driver goes in a cobra soundtracker i picked one up at a yard sale and the guy said there was one of them missing but it keys up and mods with out it he said.Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1870
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 11:09 pm: |
|
he did not know what he was talking about.
you'll have to find out the model number of the radio, and find a schematic online to compare parts till you find the one thats missing.
(shouldnt be too hard to find the schematic if you do a google search)
if by some chance, the final and/or driver is missing, you'll know where it was because there will be some white goop on the chassis wall where it used to be bolted.
did you ever get that mic wired to the midland?
i'd like to know if my tutorial was helpful so i'll know whether i should refer to it in other posts.
later,
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 14
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 4:36 am: |
|
sorry Matt it is the 29ltd st model and i am not sure if it is the final or driver it is on the left side of the radio with the front facing you . I tried to find info online and all i could find was ads for them.Doug |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 15
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 2:50 am: |
|
Hey Matt i could not find the power vr pod and was wanting to know if you knew which one it is i know that vr4 is missing in the radio and i am not sure if that is it but when i key the mic the meter goesall the way over.Let me know if that is the right on ok thanks Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1893
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 1:21 am: |
|
VR1 rx gain VR2 rx signal meter VR3 squelch VR4 AMC VR5 tx power meter VR6 antenna warning light
so VR4 should be there. look at the schem. or the parts list at the end of the service manual to get the correct value.
it seems to me that someone didnt understand the instructions of a certain mod, and instead of turning up the VR, they removed it.
make sure you look on both sides of the board to make sure someone didnt move this control to the front panel.
if you see wires in the holes where VR4 used to be, this is the case.
TR15 is your driver, and TR14 is the final.
as for the meter moving all the way over, that could either be good or bad.
is the SWR ok?
on transmit, the needle should move about to the point on the meter where it turns from green to red.
most likely, someone thought that turning up the RF meter VR would increase the output power. WRONG! they just changed what the meter reads, so look at VR5 and see if its turned all the way one way.
if so, key the mic with no audio, and turn VR5 until the meter is in the "correct" spot.
it will not be accurate as far as actual wattage out goes, but they were never very accurate in the first place.
good luck,
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 16
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 6:01 pm: |
|
hey matt i got a well i think it is a roger beep that has a switch on it and i can not find the wiring for it . it has a green red and white wire with a crystal om the board .any help would be great thanks DOug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1898
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 10:27 pm: |
|
sorry man, i have no idea what that thing is.
probably not a roger beep if it has a crystal on it.
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 17
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 11, 2006 - 2:05 pm: |
|
Ok thanks any way Matt .Doug |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 18
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 6:46 pm: |
|
hey matt ? on my 29 ltdst there is alot of static and if i change radios it goes away how would i fix that problem Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1955
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 10:59 pm: |
|
i dont know much about the soundtracker technology, but from what i hear, it stinks.
im guessing its the reason for the static, but if it isnt, noise is always best filtered at its source.
what is the situation with this radio?
is it in your mobile? what kind of vehicle?
what is the other radio you are testing it against?
what kind of static?
only heard when vehicle is on? all the time?
is it still there with the antenna unhooked?
give me some details, and please be longwinded, and i'll try to help.
good luck,
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 20
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, August 10, 2006 - 4:26 pm: |
|
no it is on my base antenna and the other radio is a old fleetwood mobile and when the antenna is unhooked there is no static and on the other radio i dont have all the static like on the 29 soundtracker |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1638
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Friday, August 11, 2006 - 10:03 am: |
|
KV, I've heard the same about soundtracker. I will say this. My dad and I each own Cobra 148 soundtrackers and used them everyday about 3 years ago. Our tech who does our cobra work claimed to improve the circuit. It really cuts out almost 99 percent static. For instance at 30 miles apart both soundtrackers barefoot, one mobile and one base communications was impossible because of noise level. Turn both soundtrackers on and we could then carry on a QSO! So I think they are kinda like a NB/ANL on steriods somewhat. Only thing I don't care for is that it makes the audio have a crunchy sound. Like when you over drive an amp with a really low dead key. YUCK! Oh and unless your talking to another soundtracker radio then forget it. Only useful in pairs! Ok sorry about the hijack guys.
Gaurdian, Maybe your Cobra 29 is due for an alignment? |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 21
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Friday, August 11, 2006 - 11:49 pm: |
|
How do u align the 29 ltdst can it be done by me or is it some thing a shop needs to do
Doug |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 22
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 2:17 pm: |
|
Hey Matt can u tell me to put a amp inline it should go radio meter amp antenna right or am i wrong.Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1980
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 8:01 pm: |
|
hey doug, sorry i missed this thread.
yes, you should have a shop align the 29ltd.
to make sure they are good, ask them this, "do you guys use an oscilloscope or an RF voltmeter to do the synthesizer alignment?"
if they say anything other than, "an oscilloscope of course!" then try to find another shop.
as for the amp in line, you want to go radio, amp, meter, antenna.
that way you can read the SWR coming out of the amp.
that being said, its also important to know the SWR coming INTO the amp from the radio.
if you have an SWR meter built into the radio, this is easy, just use it.
otehrwise, you'll want to check the SWR on BOTH sides of the amp, but after making sure that neither the input or output SWR is over 2 to 1; put the meter after the amp for normal use.
hope that makes sense. feel free to ask more questions.
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 23
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, August 28, 2006 - 3:31 pm: |
|
ok i was just wantinf to know if there are any mods for the 29ltd st like puting extra freq.in the radiousing the pll chip just let me know thanks Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 2012
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, August 28, 2006 - 11:47 pm: |
|
the only way to modify that radio for freqs. is with an expo kit.
if you do decide to use one, get one that will give you a 40 channel band below channel one.
thats the only place you stand a chance of hearing someone on AM, and they are very few and far between.
above 40 is strictly SSB.
take it easy,
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 24
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2006 - 4:36 pm: |
|
hey matt ? how do u check to see if coax is good or not i have some mini 8 i was given and am not sure if it has a bad spot or not Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 2063
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, September 11, 2006 - 11:24 pm: |
|
if it looks like it has ever been kinked, bent too much, crushed in a door, or chewed by the dog; just throw it away as it will cause you endless headaches.
example: i had a short coax jumper that came with a meter i bought on a internet auction site.
i hooked the jumper up to my radio, then to an SWR meter which went to a dummy load.
keyed the mic, checked the SWR, and it was all good.
1.1 to 1
so assuming that it was ok, i kept it.
two weeks later, i was hooking up my tube amp, and needed a jumper, went to the box, grabbed this jumper, hooked it up, went to talking, and amp was squealing. checked SWR, over 4 to 1!
you see, the sheild was not connected to the connector very well, which didnt matter at 4 watts, but at 300 watts, it REALLY mattered.
so take your opinion from my story, you can check it with a dummy load, and use it if the SWR is low.
but i will never use a jumper after a linear that i did not buy new, or make myself. (i make ALL my own jumpers now)
good luck,
matt
BTW, its OK to start another thread to ask me a question. LOL (just kiddin') |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 25
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, September 24, 2006 - 12:31 pm: |
|
hey matt do u have a freq list for a hr2510 after it has had the mod done for 11 meters .let me know thanks Doug |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 2101
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, September 24, 2006 - 9:49 pm: |
|
no, but it should go from 26.000 to 29.995 in 19khz steps.
matt |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 26
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 4:27 pm: |
|
do u know of a mod for the rit control on the 2510 Doug |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 27
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 5:44 pm: |
|
Thank you also do u know of a mod to put in a variable power pod i looked for one on line and the one i found said to put in a 4700 omh resistor |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 28
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 10:53 am: |
|
Ok here is one a friend of mine lives in a mobile home and runs a galaxy 95t and some one next door has told them that when he talk on the radio he makes their touch lamp to flicker any idea as to why he does not run power and has a Antron 99 for the antenna |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 2190
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 4:28 pm: |
|
that is a very common problem. it has to do with the way a touch lamp works. there is actually a circuit inside the lamp.
there are instructions on the ARRL site for how to shield and modify the circuit, but most radio operators just get rid of their touch lamps.
without messing with the touchlamp itself, he should raise the antenna up as far as he can, and run a 6ga. solid copper wire from the base of the antenna where it connects to the mast, all the way straight down the mast to an 8 foot ground rod pounded all the way in the ground right at the base of his antenna.
matt |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 2153
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 10:48 pm: |
|
If your friend is operating a Galaxy 95T, there is no doubt, he IS running "power". It has an amplifier inside the radio and will most likely cause more interference to his nieghbors than a "barefoot" radio. A "barefoot" or "legal power" radio is what we consider to be not running power.
Kenny
cef491(27.115lsb)
2sf491(27.555usb)
Indiana
|
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 30
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Monday, January 15, 2007 - 2:59 pm: |
|
can a hr2510 be turned down so that u can use a tx-100 amp with out changing the finals .Doug |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 12727
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, January 15, 2007 - 3:05 pm: |
|
Guardian,
Yes, just look the the LEFT of the forum here and you will see:
Tools
Mic. Wiring
Frequency Chart
CB & Ham Lingo
Modification List
CLICK on Modification List and then Make-Uniden ~ Model-HR2510
Lon
Tech808
N9CEF
CEF#808/HAM#33
CVC#002
|
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 3455
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, January 15, 2007 - 3:10 pm: |
|
if you plan on using it on SSB only, you just need to back the mic gain down, to less then 14 watts PEP-or wherever the amp sounds best. for AM, you have to go inside & turn the dead key back down to 3 watts or so, then back the mic gain down so PEP is under 14 watts. |
Brain_damage
Junior Member
Username: Brain_damage
Post Number: 47
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 7:35 pm: |
|
anybody who has a magnum s-9 ever had a problem like the one i am having after i let it warm up for about 15 minutes and i key up to talk to someone it shuts completely off,i turn it off and it comes right back on,but it still keeps shutting off only after i press the mic key to talk.any suggestion before i send it back to magnum to have it looked at,it is still under warranty |
Biskybabyusa
Junior Member
Username: Biskybabyusa
Post Number: 26
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 3:01 pm: |
|
Wow, I hope Guardian got squared away on one of his radios. Lots of good info you guys posted ! I am worn out from reading this thread. :-) Be back later. |
Guardian
Junior Member
Username: Guardian
Post Number: 31
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 4:51 pm: |
|
Ok do u know when the skip should start rolling again up here in the pacific northwest |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 2391
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 9:25 pm: |
|
mid to late 2008.
might pick up towards the end of this year, but thats just a maybe.
matt |
