| Author |
Message |
    
Wally38
Member
Username: Wally38
Post Number: 99
Registered: 3-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 6:11 pm: | 
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I've heard running power in some vehicles can wreak havoc on the computer chips etc. A tech at our local CB shop said he won't install linear amps, because he has had customers vehicles die and not start after keying up. This happen to anyone and what can you do about it? |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2798
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 10:36 pm: |
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can never say for sure, but what are you trying to put into what year & make vehicle??? maybe someone else took the chance 1st & can offer some suggestions! |
Therealporkchop
Advanced Member
Username: Therealporkchop
Post Number: 571
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 01, 2006 - 1:06 am: |
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I haven't had it happen yet. I have had some of the lights trip on in the dash of my truck. I've also had the PTO light come on before.
I've had my stereo act as talkback before, and had to keep it turned off if I was trying to talk on my radio.
What I would suggest and what helped my problems a lot were this:
First off stop buying cheap coax. Don't believe that bull that the regular ole gray coax is good stuff. For Db loss with short runs, yeah it's fine if you are only studying the loss. But if you want a real good coax that keeps the signal inside the coax and gets it to your antenna, then buy the very best you can afford. Forget the noise toy and elect for better coax.
Ground everything as best you know how. I ground my cab to my chassis and that helped so much. I figured it was grounded from the factory, think again. Besides, you can see between the dumpbed and cab and it looks cool to see this huge ground braided cable running from the cab to chassis.
Follow the math. There are mathmatical formulas on the net to follow for coax length once you learn the velocity factor of the coax you are going to use. People lie and so does the internet, but the numbers don't.
Buy a good antenna. Personal choice or favorite brand ain't a good enough reason to keep a fiberglass whip. Experiment until you find one that really works. There is a difference.
Use good quality power and ground cable. Make good solid connections and keep everything clean and neat. Check the reflected power or use a REAL good SWR meter. Take the time to try to get it as low as you can. Some people chase that magical 1.1:1 but 1.5:1 is just as good.
These are my opinions and advice offered from my experiences. Following this same plan, I've got the best transmitting and receiving setup I've ever had. But I'm sure others will chime in with two thumbs up and others with a big "he's crazy".
Later |
Chad
Advanced Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 802
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Monday, May 01, 2006 - 10:52 am: |
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PC
Did you ever get that fan noise taken care of? What was it? I'm battling Fuel pump RF noise like a big dawg and will have the hatch apart soon to do some work. The noise is so bad it even leaks into the stereo if the signal cables are routed a certain way. No noise if antenna is un-plugged 
I'm going to try tackling the fuel pump and guage wiring now.
Chad |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1380
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, May 01, 2006 - 11:42 am: |
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Yes, that is true. You need to contact the
place where you bought it or the manufacture
for information. |
Therealporkchop
Advanced Member
Username: Therealporkchop
Post Number: 574
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 01, 2006 - 12:07 pm: |
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Chad, you talking about my AC blower noise? I changed over to LMR400 Ultra Flex and the Predator and that actually cut some of it down. In my truck there is 4 positions for the fan to run. The lowest never causes a problem and the next selection use to make it real bad. I can now run it on the second selection and it's there if you turn the SQ back but not real loud like before. The next two selections with the SQ turned back, you'll hear it real good. You can turn the SQ up until it shuts, but of course it's up so high that distant signals will have to be strong to break it.
In a nut shell, I didn't really solve the problem but masked it a bit. I have decided that shielding the blower moter somehow would help deflect it away from the antenna. Cause with the antenna unhooked, you don't hear it. So I know it's being picked up by the antenna. I thought of wrapping the blower motor with foil, but then I thought about it overheating.
So I don't know what to tell you. But all the things I listed above really helped to cut it down quite a bit. There's just a little farther I need to go to 'solve' the problem I just haven't figured it out... |
Chad
Advanced Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 806
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 9:41 am: |
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Yep that's the noise I was talking about. Have you tried filtering the blower motor supply lines in any way to keep the hash from creeping around the truck's electrical system? That's what I'm going to try with my fuep pump. I'll let you know but it could be a while, got a lot of sticks in the fire now 
Chad |
Therealporkchop
Advanced Member
Username: Therealporkchop
Post Number: 583
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 6:58 pm: |
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I haven't thought of that. Maybe I should try it. It helps you, then for sure it'll help me too.
Let me know cause I'm the juggernaut....
maybe someone else here will know what I'm talking about |
