| Author |
Message |
    
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 21
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, April 13, 2006 - 10:02 pm: | 
|
A friend of mine actually wants to purchase this. He wants to know though if he buys it from copper, if it's "ready to go" for 11 meters. Is it "ready to go" for 11 meters if purchased from copper? (W90-00260 Texas Star DX 667V Mobile)
Also, the texas star wesbite says that if this amp has an input of 20 watts, that it will put out 650 watts. How does one make a 148 gtl (original 5 pin) swing to 20 watts? Even though the chart at the texas star says EX 667V, I am assuming the DX is the same right? Thanks.
O yeah, one more thing, He plans on adding another battery in paralell with the first battery. As we all know, this will keep the voltage the same, but increase available amperage. Would this be better than upgrading the alternator? Also, what gauge wire for the 667 to the battery? Mini 8 should be OK for the COAX right? Sorry for the million questions. Thanks again. |
Mayor513
Member
Username: Mayor513
Post Number: 67
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 12:12 am: |
|
--I can answer the first question for you. Yes, if you indeed order it from Copper Electronics, it will be ready to use on 27Mhz. The 2SC2879 finals in that amp are rated for about 120 watts each. Their are four of them, so figure that amp is good for 480 to 500 watts PEP....maybe 600, give or take....someone more knowledgable should chime in, though, haha. Good luck. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 9736
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 8:46 am: |
|
James,
While the Mini 8 will work I would personally use RG8 or RG213.
I would suggest using #8 wire with the TP-8 Quick Disconnect For Mobile Amplifiers and Radios
To view the TP-8 Quick Disconnect For Mobile Amplifiers and Radios click HERE
Your friend may find it much cheaper to just buy an UNDER size/drive (Smaller) pully for the alternator and a new fan belt than buying another battery.
This will allow the alternator it to turn much faster to keep a charge in the battery.
Hope this helps,
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 24
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 10:25 am: |
|
My friend or I are not exactly mechanically inclined. Minus the economics, would adding a second battery be just as feasible? Any brand recommendations?
can a 148 swing to 20? How can he make it swing higher, even if not 20? |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2700
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 7:21 pm: |
|
mayor is pretty close, james. your STOCK 148 will get 400 + out of the 667...honest power. that's it. forget 667 watts or 2/3 kilowatt or whatever they put on 'em nowadays.
your new 148 should be able to swing 12-15 PEP fairly easily, but not neccessary for the 667. it'll work fine out of the box.
depending on the vehicle & its alternator, a 2nd battery(i like optimas, but any high CCA with high reserve will work fine) will help keep the voltage up, which in turn will keep the amplifier's watts at max. wiring should be upgraded, antenna & coax needs to be sufficient, make sure you know what you need to do before attempting it. read up a lot & check into everything 1st. a lot of money at stake if you don't do it right. |
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 28
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 7:56 pm: |
|
OK. Sounds good. I want to maybe install 2 fans for the amp (1 intake 1 out take) as i heard that this amp gets hot. Any suggestions on where to get the fans? Any way of wiring as to avoid fan noise through the circuitry? Thanks. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2703
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 11:37 am: |
|
any high CFM computer fan, or fan of proper dimensions will be fine. i've never had fans cause noise to the radio-rcv or xmit. they MAY be loud while turning, but, if the amp is in the backseat, say, noise shouldn't be a problem.
take a few plastic molys(the red, blue, or yellow plastic thingies that you push into sheetrock so the pics don't fall off the wall)that fit TIGHTLY into the amps cooling fins & jam 'em in there. just screw the fans into the molys & you're good. you can either splice the fan wires to the amps wires, or, drill a hole & solder wires to inside of amp.
i'd use AT LEAST 6 guage wire for the amp, if not heavier. |
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 37
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 12:29 pm: |
|
Where does one buy a CFM computer fan?
What gauge wire does the amp have in it and how long? The battery will literally be 2-3 feet away, so if the wire that already comes with the amp is long enough, I should be OK. What gauge and length come attatched to it? Thanks. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1163
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 2:48 pm: |
|
You can find PC fans at flea markets or with so many obsolete PC's out there you can get a PC for a few bucks and part it out. Oh and Pats right! The little plastic drywall inserts are perfect for securing a fan to the heatsink! The Texas Star 667 has 10 gauge on it and about 6 inches long.
Driving a 667 with a cobra 148 is not bad. May I suggest something a little different? I have a cobra 148 that I drive the DX500V with. I get the advertised 500 watts. If you ever get a dual final radio you can still use the 500v. The 667 you can't use a dual final radio.
Since I have such a low swing from my radio I can get away with just 8 gauge power cables , 100 amp alternator and an Optima red top battery! |
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 44
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 10:12 pm: |
|
Hi. Many people recommend using 6 gauge or 4 gauge wire for this amp.
But what good is it if in the end this thicker cable is getting hooked up to 10 gauge wire that is already in the amp?
Or should I desolder the 10 gauge and solder the 6 gauge?
Or simply twist and solder the 6 gauge to the 10 gage that is already there, tape it up with black electrical tape and call it a day? |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1170
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 10:51 am: |
|
The reason you want thicker cable is because you need a long run off it. The 10 gauge on the amp is only like 1 foot long tops. As cable gets longer it gets harder for the power to travel through it. All that resistance causes heat and will burn up long small gauge wire. Leave the amps power wire alone. Its ok because its short. |
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 45
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 10:57 am: |
|
Is 4 gauge overkill. Should I go with 6? Where can i get thick cable like that? pep Boys? Autozone? Home Depot? How many starnds within the 6 or 4 gauge is good? Thanks. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1172
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 11:12 am: |
|
James, You may be able to use 8 gauge but if you go over about 8 feet then use 6 gauge. If you need a real long power wire then go 4 gauge. But in a normal install I would say that 4 is overkill. You can get high power high qaulity 8 gauge and maybe 6 gauge at car audio shops. You can get the very high qaulity welding cable at farm supply stores like tracter supply, 6 and 4 gauge. Remember this stuff starts getting exspensive after 8 gauge. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1173
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 11:16 am: |
|
Oh! the smaller strands is important for flex. Good stuff will be fine standed and have many strands in it. Stay away from anything to stiff with only a few strands. Such as the electrical service line for your house. Home depot sales that stuff. Its no good for your car just your house. |
Jameslarson
Junior Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 47
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 7:46 pm: |
|
Farm Supply stores? I am in NY. I don't know if there are many of those around. there are defeinetly tons of car stereo shops though. Thanks for the advice. You are the best. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2720
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 8:23 pm: |
|
'wire, 'wire, 'wire, he's near ME, not YOU  , beaches & bikinis here, not much need for farm & tractor supply, except out in the woods near hank maybe |
Bc910
Advanced Member
Username: Bc910
Post Number: 718
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 9:28 pm: |
|
OK, I will give a hint here
Look for a industrial battery shop...
They use welding cable usually up to 2/0 and bigger!!!!
BC |
Chad
Advanced Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 784
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 9:06 am: |
|
AND I'm absolutely positive there are welding supply houses in NY.... Unless they pop-rivet those big buildings together 
Beaches and bikinis That must be nice with that C-O-L-D water!!!!!!!
Chad |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1185
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 12:08 pm: |
|
 What was I thinking? James just go over to Pats house cause I'm sure he has a 100 foot roll of "00" somewhere hidden away!Maybe even some spare 6 gauge. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2723
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 3:17 pm: |
|
biggest rivets you ever saw, chad  yes, we DO have welding supply houses here as for cold water & bikinis.... |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 51
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 4:19 pm: |
|
So basically, my friend wants to know that if he does order one from copper, that when it gets delivered to his door, all he has to do is basically plug it in (Well, plug it into a battery). It already has so-239's on it and he DOES NOT have to modify the insides in anyway for it to work on 11 meters correct? Thanks. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 9765
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 5:02 pm: |
|
Jameslarson,
YES that is 100% CORRECT.
It will be 100% ready to use right out of the box after connecting coax jumpers and power. 
Why not have your friend join the Copper Forum?
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 52
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 7:31 pm: |
|
Well, i did recommend that to him, but he's not really on the internet all that much, and he's a really really busy guy. I think he may be getting this as a gift for me helping him move his entire business from one warehouse to another, because funny thing is, he doesn't know that much about CB, and only has an old Uniden small radio (520??). I guess that is why he is asking me a ton of questions. I am holding off buying one just in case it is a gift. Thanks |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1192
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 18, 2006 - 1:26 pm: |
|
Hey James yesterday I remembered a good idea you may like. Instead of searching for a place to find good heavy gauge power wire for your amp think about this. A friend of mine just went to the auto parts store or Walmart and bought a good set of jumper cables for cars. He just cut the big battery clamps off and stripped the insulation off and used them to wire his amp to the battery. I know this sounds kind of ghetto but after the install it actually looked good! He bought the good ones so they have premium grade insulation, are flexible and have pretty good qaulity copper strands inside!Plus unlike mine the wires are color coded and connected together as just one big power line! You can choose from 8 gauge all the way up to 2 gauge at most auto stores and the cost is about the same or cheaper as if you bought weld wire or similar somewhere else. Hope this helps your search a little better!73 |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 58
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 18, 2006 - 4:35 pm: |
|
I was thinking about that. Any thoughts from anyone here about Hotwires suggestions? good? bad? Sounds good to me. thanks for the suggestion. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1199
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2006 - 1:18 pm: |
|
Another trick you may like. Have you thought about how your going to connect the big gauge wires together securely? Well twisting them is not to good and soldering can be a bit tricky and if your like me a bit messy too! Heres what I do! Go to the hardware store in the plumbing section. Look for copper pipe couplers. They range in sizes from 2 inches all the way down half an inch and are only like an inch long. They are perfect for crimping the wide gauge wires together! Cheap too!!! I use them in the mobile and they have done a good job! Put some shrink tube over them when finished and you have a nice neat looking connection. I had trouble finding crimps made specifically for wide gauge cables and when I did the cost was way higher than the alternative! Just sharing some secret old school Hotwire tricks. When your a poor boy you gotta be creative sometimes!73 |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 63
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2006 - 3:25 pm: |
|
Hotwire. I don't understand. How do you mean connect the big wire? Are you referring to how I'm going to connect the texas star power leads to the thick 1/0 gauge cable which in turn is going to the battery?
What I actually may do is this.
I just replaced my old battery with a red top. I may also get another red top, put it behind the passenger seat (it's a van) and run it in paralell with the other battery with 1/0 cable. Keep in mind that these batteries have the top posts and the side posts. So I will use the side posts for the parallel run, and then the top posts of the battery behind the passenger seat for my amp and radio. All I will simply do is run 6 gauge cable from the top posts to a see through fuse distributor (You've seen them at car stereo shops). It accepts on one end 2-6 gauge size wire. On the other end it allows for like 6-10 gauge cable. On this other side of the fuse distributor will be a pig tail for the quick disconnect. Then on the amp will be the other quick disconnect pigtail. Does this make all sense? O yeah, similiar wiring for the actual cb radio too. |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 540
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 1:17 pm: |
|
except out in the woods near hank maybe ..
Hmmmmm..still wondering where to take that one.
..anyways go to WAllymart. They sell a radio amplifier installation kit with NICE blue transparant shielding. Think it was 4g and 20 or so ft...good heavy flexy stuff at "rollback" prices.
Take a peek in automotive by the car stereos and you'll see what I'm talking about. They MAY even have the nice circut breaker you could use.
Hmmmm...pAT still won't capitalize my name huh? 
How was the wifes birthday pAT? Take her someplace nice? My wifes (cellphone lady) was yesterday...I took her to the woods near me and had squirrel pie, gravy and buns. Top shelf all the way! The kids even let Momma sit on the big rock this time! |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2740
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 5:23 pm: |
|
HANK-you DO have 1 of those 'agway' stores out there....we draw the line with 'true value' back here in the suburbs
oh the birthday was just fine, grandpa had to pick up kids at 2 different schools at 2 different times, bring 'em back home to start homework, take #1 to little league game, then #2 to lacrosse practice(2 different towns, 10+ minutes apart) & wait for my wife to get there from her job, so grandpa could be relieved. i in turn left a business meeting early to make the 45 minute trip(1.25 hrs in traffic)back to the little league game by the bottom of the 1st, stayed til dark, brought him home, said hello/goodbye & went BACK to the job. at this rate, the celebration will be in early june. at least i remembered courtesy of you |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1215
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 10:36 am: |
|
Mmmmm....squirrel pie. That's delicacy here in Indiana! Ever try raccoon stew, possum pudding or mmmmm my favorite, roadkill suprise! All good eat'in!... Hank! You would love it here man! |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2749
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 11:33 am: |
|
when i was around 15, small game hunting was good in the woods where home depot is behind mcdonalds on sunrise in patchogue(sorry guys, hank knows of the suburbia i speak of) & also just north of sunrise on the station rd exit(heck, when i was11 or 12, that area was desolate!). an old guy named Azell worked in the auto repair shop next to where i was working(this guy remimded me of curtis lowe by lynyrd skynyrd) & the 1st time me & my friends mentioned all the animals we saw that we WEREN'T looking for, he said to "bring 'em on, dey wuz gud fer eatin'". well, maybe 1 or 2 of us tried a bite of some of his meals, but, you name it, he ate it-raccoon, oppossum, squirrel, muscrat, rabbit, snake, birds...yea, i know, some CAN be made into an appetizing meal, but it was a combination of the curtis lowe-thing & the way he went about it.... |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1230
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 1:51 pm: |
|
Hey Pat, I was just kidding man! I have never ate any game besides deer meat. I did try a frog leg once. I suppose if prepared right I might try squirrel, rabbit and maybe a BIG maybe snake! But MUSCRAT?? AHH Man I'm gonna throw up! Pat? Did you eat Muscrat?? |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 76
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 5:10 pm: |
|
OK. Well, like I thought, my buddy got me a 667. Great guy man. I hope he moves again ;-). Anyway, I am looking at the specs, and it says frequency range: 28.0 to 29.7 MHZ. I know CB is pretty close, but even though it says 28 MHZ, is the amp "really" runed to 11 meter either by TS themselves or after the fact by anyone else? Obviuosly they cannot advertise that. If not tuned to 11 meteer, will my SWR's be a little off or the amp run hot because of that? Thanks. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2770
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 5:11 pm: |
|
ummmmm...NO |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 9832
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 5:55 pm: |
|
Jameslarson,
You will need to check to see if it has been converted for 11 meter use.
If it has not been converted then here is the Conversion from the Modification List that I have posted here in the Copper Forum.
1. Unsolder the wire from the key jack on the rear panel near the fuse holders.
2. Locate the two standing capacitors (15pf and 33pf) near the relay and RF choke. Unsolder and remove the wire from the tops of the capacitors. Separate and remove the 33pf capacitor leaving the 15pf in place. Resolder the standing end of the 15pf capacitor to the adjacent pad on the board. This pad also connects to a wire from the rear panel S0239 connector (Radio).
3. Remove the 33 ohm resistor (orange-orange-black) (and wire if present) located directly behind the relay. This resistor connects a RF choke to the oscillator board.
NOTICE!
Some units may only have a wire without a 33 ohm resistor soldered to this point. In that case remove the wire.
4. Unsolder and remove the large yellow capacitor (marked 2200K) connecting the center of the blue pot to the oscillator board. Do not remove the resistor connected to the pot.
5. Locate the white block resistor and RF choke behind the meter. Unsolder and remove the 10 ohm resistor (brown-black-black) from the top of the 30K resistor (orange-black-orange) beside the RF choke.
6. Locate the wire soldered to Pin 1 of the Power switch (red lens). Unsolder the grounded end of this wire, and solder it to the 10 ohm 2 watt resistor (brown-black-black) located directly under Pin 1 of the Power switch (red lens).
7. Unsolder and remove the oscillator board if desired.
Hope this help's,
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 77
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 8:48 pm: |
|
OK. hi Tech808. But here's the million dollar question. This 667 was purchased from you know where. So does this mod still need to be done? Or has "the place" it was purchased it from done this already? Mayor 513 (the 2nd post in this thread) mentions it is ready for 11 meter. But now I am confused. Please help. Thanks. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 9834
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 11:49 pm: |
|
Jameslarsen,
If it was purchased from Copper it is all set to go.
If it was purchased from anyone else you will need to check it.
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Mayor513
Member
Username: Mayor513
Post Number: 76
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 12:47 am: |
|
--Hi, James. Yeah, as I stated in the 2nd post, if it was purchased from Copper Electronics, it is ready to go on 11 meters. I can't say whether or not it is ready to go on 11 meters if you (or whomever) purchased it on another website. Good luck with it, and have fun! |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1238
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 1:36 pm: |
|
If the place it was purchased from did the conversion they may have put a warranty sticker on each side of the device. That way they know if you voided the warranty by opening it. So if it has stickers on the side from the cb shop it came from it means their fingers was in it, may be safe to say its 11 meter ready! |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 79
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 5:57 pm: |
|
Yes. It was purchased from Copper. And yes, there are shiny stickers on the side that says something like "If opened, warranty is void" or something like that. Thanks. |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 81
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 10:14 pm: |
|
I could have sworn I asked this in my last post. I may be tired. Anyway, I've always wondered how this amp (or any amp) is able to be purchased? Aren't the places that sell them open to the possibility that our favorite gov't agency may purchase one? Or is there a loophole I just am missing. Thanks. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1243
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 1:44 pm: |
|
We use then for industrial, scientific, medical, or export use only!!!! We NEVER (cough cough) use them for 11 meter cb radios James! Thats highly illegal!
You never heard about the medical remedies??? Amps do wonders for stuffy sinuses.
WHAT? You was planning on hooking one up to your radio?? Who are you and what did you do with James? |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 85
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 7:11 pm: |
|
Is it normal to hear (well kinda hear) your voice actually through the 667 itself? In other words, i know it sounds weird to explain, but I hear my voice kind of vibrate through the 667 itself internally. Any ideas? thanks. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1246
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 1:17 pm: |
|
Your overdriving it!!!!!! Not sure what radio your using but you do not want to put more than 12 watts into the 667 with a 2 watt dead key! A little more maybe but its iffy. Thats the only possible solution I can think of. Try turning the mic gain down until it goes away. How are your radio checks? Loud is good but you wanna have a clean audio with no background noise or distort. You may wanna hear your audio for yourself unless your sure the person giving the check knows the difference between good and bad audio. Bottom line, check and double check the radios output! You would be suprised how easy it is to drive an amp. I have run 500v with as little as 8 watts drive with great performance. good luck |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 86
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 4:21 pm: |
|
Hi. 2 multi meters confirm that my radio dead keys 3 and swings to just past 4 (In RMS mode. In peak mode, it is swinging to 12-15) Do I use rms or peak?. It only happens when I set the Dial a watt on the 667 to the maximum. As I lower the dial a watt my voice through the amp gradually disappears. Help. Thanks. |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 550
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 6:05 pm: |
|
Sound like a simple case of harmonics...My Grant does it too. Perhaps using a stock or noise cancelling mic would help. Extra grounds may also help the problem. Like I said it does happen in my "Clipped" Grant but not with my "unclipped" 148GTL. Harmonics...yup...thats what I'd say. You can also try turning down your mic gain till it stops and see how you sound to others. Don't know where you were the other night on .225 but you sounded grand till I lost you.
Run with it...consider it free talkback and keep tabs on yer 667 temp just in case. Let us know what shes PEP'in
Hank....Mmmmmmm skwirrrrel |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 87
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 6:31 pm: |
|
Well, in RMS she's doing 300-400. I was hoping for more. Voltage and amperage are great. Maybe I should increrase my drive by a 1/2 watt or so. The other night was with a palomar (about 150 watts). I'll try later tonight around 8-9. I put a 102" whip on. Holy cow am I hitting everyhthing, but nothing like 1:3 SWR's across the board. Now all I have to do is elimuinate the darn engine noise. gonna try ferrite chokes. O yeah, Should I use RMS or peak on my meter? Thanks. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1247
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Friday, April 28, 2006 - 3:33 am: |
|
hmm... harmonics, did'nt think of that one! Very well could be the cause. I am pretty sure most of us use peak reading. The amp manufacturers do. Try using a 2 watt dead key in peak mode if you like. May cause amp trouble to go away and possibly more output. |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 552
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Friday, April 28, 2006 - 5:05 am: |
|
RMS or Peak..whichever makes you happy. RMS is much more realistic as far as real output. Peak might give an indication how you sound to others. More swing MIGHT indicate how loud you are sounding.
Use RMS when your setting things up like the radio or amps deadkey... Say "Auuuuuuuudio" and make sure your NOT swinging backward at all. A little forward is ideal IMHO. I like the highest DK I can get before swinging downward..then back it down a little more.
After that go ahead and switch to peak or PEP to see that needle swAng for peak output / relative modulation numbers. Keep settin up and try to see that 1:4PEP ratio for clean unclipped modulation. In other words say DK 100 and swing 400 or however it works out. You DON'T have to be precise but use it as a basic guidline and get feedback. The closer you get to that 1:1 ratio the more the clothespin tightens on your nose
Heard you out there last night in your mobile...sounded great! LOUD and clean...didn't hear me though  ...sent a PM your way.
Hank |
Jameslarson
Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 90
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Friday, April 28, 2006 - 9:10 am: |
|
What happens if it swings backwards in RMS mode? Thanks. |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 553
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Friday, April 28, 2006 - 4:25 pm: |
|
THEN..your hitting it too hard with the radio..overdriven...you'll prolly sound like poop too. Your TS will run hotter and not last as long.
Deadkey would need to be lowered. I would assume you should be looking for a 100wDK out of that 667 and swing to whatever your 148 hits it with governing your total PEP.
Hotwire and Pat have MUCH more expierience with those heaters...but I know I'm on the safe side with my figures. My TNT 4 pill sees about 100DK with 3.5w IN and around 400+out with 35w swing input.
RMS is around 250 swing if I remember correctly.
When I used my GrantXL with 2wDK and 16Pep I saw 60W DK and 350+w Swing out of same kicker. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2786
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 9:47 am: |
|
dx667v should key around 125 & swing 400-500PEP |
Sniper_62881
Member
Username: Sniper_62881
Post Number: 90
Registered: 7-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 8:40 am: |
|
Lots of helpful info in this topic. |
Deptuydog
Junior Member
Username: Deptuydog
Post Number: 19
Registered: 5-2005
| | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 1:33 am: |
|
Iam trying to find any info about installing a remote switch (just for on and off) for my texas star 667v. I would like to install it on the on and off switch. I know that texas star makes a remote for their 1200 and 1600 but i havent seen one for the 667v. Can any one help with this. thanks dave |
Jameslarson
Intermediate Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 167
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 10:02 am: |
|
What you can do is figure out the amperage rating of the switch already in there, and simply mount a switch of the same rating in your driving area and run a wire to the points on the circuit board. |
Chad
Advanced Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 892
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 10:54 am: |
|
The voltage loss in the remote wire at this point would/could cause issues. I believe a simple high current relay back by the amp and using low current control wiring is a better idea. Even if you passed the power wiring by the dash to wire to a switch that thick of cabling would put undue stress on the switch terminals and casue premature failure, or worse, a short to chasis. I use a solenoid at home to power my rig up. Mine is all 12V but I have a 120V swtch on the bench that turns on the solenoid coils (120V coil) and accessories for radio use. One-switch onder There is a bypass switch on the control box that acts as a solenoid bypass so if there is an electrical failure the whole rig can be on the air no problem, sans accessories (no big deal, I can broadcast and use the scanner)
Chad |
Jameslarson
Intermediate Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 168
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 11:37 am: |
|
O yeah, of course a realy could be used. I was trying to keep ot a little simpler for him. Thanks. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1426
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 12:06 pm: |
|
The DX1200 and DX1600 actually have a jack installed for the remote to plug into. For a DX667 you may try this. Lets say for instance you want the amp in the trunk. Run the amps power wires from the battery going past the driver seat. Install the biggest rated toggle you can find right there on the red power wire at arms length. No reason why it should not work. good luck |
