| Author |
Message |
    
Sinker
Intermediate Member
Username: Sinker
Post Number: 111
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 7:37 pm: | 
|
Only waiting on two more items - the Maco V-5000 antenna and the Galaxy Echo Base Mic.
Couldn't stand just looking at the new equipment sitting there so figured I would hook it up to the A-99 for a test run.
First thing I wanted was to check the SWR both on the radios meter and on the Workman Meter. The darn knob falls off the stupid workman meter. Not a big deal I guess as the metal cap came off the plastic main, you can see where is was glued so guess I could glue it back on. Anyway SWR Readings were good - nothing higher than 1.3:1 across the band.
The radio I just got back from Copper having tuned for the KLV-1000 seemed to work fine enough until I tried out the weather band NOTHING Signal strength showed through the roof but nothing - it worked before I sent it so I'm getting worried.
The KLV-1000 doesn't even seem to turn on - The most expensive piece of equipment I bought and it won't even turn on. Do the meters light up when the power is on??? When you key up does the ON AIR thing light up. This one ripped me good and seemed like the final straw.
I have modified my computer desk to accommodate all the wiring etc. and ensure plenty of air flow so not happy about having big holes in my cherry desk....
I cooled down a bit and decided to hook the antenna directly to the Radio and HEY the Weather Band works fine. I went back and double checked the way I had all the coax cables attached and all were indeed correct.
Now Perhaps the problem is with the jumpers as the A-99 is still using the RG-8 from Radio Shack. Everything else is the LMR-400 with Amphenol connectors that I paid a good price for BUT it was my first time every making coax connections but I also tested everyone of the jumpers with a meter and they all checked out fine.
I can fix the Workman meter and the radio indeed seems to work but I think the KLV-1000 is bad although I am not really sure as I know next to nothing about them or how to operate them.
Would the KLV-1000 or the Workman Meter in line take out the Weather band on the Texas Ranger 696F SSB Base Station???
Can anybody with a KLV-1000 PLEASE give me some advice.
Some one want to tell me again how to check my coax cables as none of them are shorted with an ohm meter.
I know a lot of you have tons of money into your stations compared to me but to me this was more than I should have ever spent and with it not working after trying to do everything right and with the best quality material recommended I am angry, a bit depressed and certainly disappointed. Good thing I have have matured a bit as in my younger days I had a similar problem with a computer and took it out back and took the 12 gauge to it.
DESPERATELY NEED HELP...
Tim
CEF-634
Stuck in Mud Duck Quick Sand |
Allagator
Advanced Member
Username: Allagator
Post Number: 695
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 8:13 pm: |
|
ok Tim does the fan kick on when you turn it on ?
(KLV-1000) if it dont check the fuse in the back ! now take the cover off and check all the fuses in the amp to see if there ok ! (watch where you stick your hands ! it will bite the Cra~ out of ya !) if all the fuses look ok and the check good i would start wondering it there is a tube that has got hit wrong in shipping !
when i got my KLV-1000P it was packed with so much stuff it took me 15 mins to get it out of the packing ! and i never had a problem ! but you know how them UPS drivers are !
hope it helped a little !
Allagator
CEF115
|
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 7466
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 8:14 pm: |
|
Sinker,
Yes with our Texas Ranger 696F in line with the KLV1000 we do lose the weather band.
With Only Radio in line No Problems with weather band. ALso the Weather bands can depend on your location as to which weather stations you will receive.
On the KLV 1000 Amp, Yes it should light up when you turn it on.
Give Copper Customer Service a Call first thing in the Morning and
Ask for Suzanne at:
1-800-626-6343
NOTE!
DO NOT TAKE THE COVER OFF OR BREAK THE WARRANTY SEAL ON THE AMPLIFIER UNTIL YOU TALK WITH SUZANNE!
Hope this helps,
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9OSN |
Sinker
Intermediate Member
Username: Sinker
Post Number: 112
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 8:35 pm: |
|
Thank You guys. It is good to know that you are all here to help lend a hand.
When I turn on the power to the KLV the fan does start - had to put my ear to the thing though as it is very quite not like the Boomer 500 I have. There are no lights though and the tubes never glow as I can see them through the vent holes.
Glad to know that the KLV takes out the weather band and it's not something messed up. I only get one weather station and have it on my Scanner anyway plus being a fisherman I have a number of Weather / NOAA radios in the house, boat, cars and truck - go figure huh - so anyway no big loss on that part.
Will call Suzanne tomorrow as I do not want to break that seal - to much money for me to ruin the warranty plus I would probably shock myself.
Did notice the units I hear went up about 2 S units and I can hear a ton more stations out there. May be able to hear some of you on Sunday.
On the LMR-400 I soldered the center pin on the connectors should I also solder the little holes farther down at the shielding??? Was worried about doing that as I did not want to get it to hot and ruin the coax. I am also running LMR-400 on everything, even the short jumpers - is this necessary??? That stuff is thick and stiffer than the RG-8 I was using....
Tim
CEF-634
Got a rope thrown to me to get out of this Mud Duck Quick Sand - Thanks guys |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 7468
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 8:47 pm: |
|
Sinker,
I personally have never found any reason to use LMR for anything but I always solder ALL the Holes to make sure I have 100% Good Connections on ALL COAX and JUMPERS.
I have Never had any problems in the past by doing this.
You can Over Heat any coax and cause problems so you want a Good Soldering Iron / Gun and you should have no problems.
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9OSN |
Sinker
Intermediate Member
Username: Sinker
Post Number: 113
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 8:54 pm: |
|
Lon I appreciate all the help, advice and encouragement you have given to me along with all the other members and Techs here.
I can't tell you how much better it made me feel when you confirmed that you too lost the weather band with the KLV in line.
As for the LMR, I have already spent the money for it so plan on going ahead and using it. Will solder up the center holes then as well. I have a number of soldering irons and guns so should have one that will work.
Tim
CEF-634
Soon to be a Mud Duck No More |
Kid_vicious
Advanced Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 720
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 12:39 am: |
|
tim, if you are going to do the ends yourself, do yourself a big favor and get a butane or propane torch.
and a roll of "good quality" solder. rosin core only, and not the cheapo skinny stuff.
prep the end of the cable by stripping off the right ammount of braid, dielectric, insulation.
slide on the sleeve. (dont forget!)spread some solder paste (flux) on the braid and tin the center connector.
now using the torch, hold the connector in a pair of pliers and heat it with the torch. heat it until you can melt solder on the outer body but dont melt the plastic holding the center pin in place.
as soon as the connector is hot enough, using a welding glove or equivilent, slide the connector on to the cable.
now using your 100 watt soldering gun, solder the braid through ALL FOUR HOLES!
now solder the center pin.
i only do it if i have to cause to me its a pain in the butt.
have fun!
matt |
Chad
Intermediate Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 472
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 8:39 am: |
|
I found a torch bad in 2 ways, it's very difficult to get accurate heat, 2 the flame will wick into the holes and burn up the dielectric. If you have a soldering iron that you can get to 800 degrees and keep it there under load that's the best bet. filling the holes also keeps water from weeping in to the coax. it takes longer than a torch but not in the sense that you may have to re work once or 2 connectors.
As for the KLV1000, I'll be willing to bet that the meter lamp is run off the filament voltage supply, since you have power getting to it but no lights or heaters I would check the filament supply fuse IF IT IS ACCESSABLE.
KV I have no problem with thin solder, I prefer the Kester low residue version, thinner just means you need to push more in  |
Tech833
Member
Username: Tech833
Post Number: 97
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 9:39 am: |
|
Sinker,
DO NOT use a torch on those connectors!!! Use a 100 watt soldering gun instead. Using rosin core solder, you should be able to melt some solder into those holes in a matter of 20 seconds or less.
If the coax jacket begins to look gooey, stop soldering and let it cool down before continuing. And yes, you should solder the braid to the connector in all 4 holes. Do not worry about 'filling' them up, just get some solder between the connector and the braid. You will not ruin the coax if the jacket melts a little, that is normal.
LMR 400 is double shielded and also has 100% shielding vs. RG8 and others that do not. This will further reduce TVI and problems with coax radiation, but the most noticeable difference will be a quieter receive since the coax will not pick up noise sources between your antenna and your radios. AC wiring in your walls is the biggiest offender, and coax has to pass through a wall at some point, so the 100% shielding will make a huge difference in this case. |
Sinker
Intermediate Member
Username: Sinker
Post Number: 115
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 10:01 am: |
|
Spoke to Paul the Tech at Copper today and he said he thinks it may just be a blown fuse and said I could go ahead and break the seal as long as that is all I messed with. So I will check them out today - hope this works and the V-5000 gets here SOON...
Tim
CEF-634 |
Sinker
Intermediate Member
Username: Sinker
Post Number: 116
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 11:19 am: |
|
Well it wasn't the fuses so it is having to be returned to Copper :-(
Soldered up the shield holes on the connectors on the LMR-400 for the antenna. 100' and gets a perfect continuity and is not shorted.
This stuff does not work well for short jumpers though. Do I need to use the LMR-400 for the jumpers as well or can I use something that is a bit more flexible. It will need to be able to handle the KLV-1000.
2 steps forward and 1 step back but getting there. Monday should have the desk mic, then hopefully next week will get the KLV back and the MACO - that's the tough one as they have one down the road at the cb shop but Copper has been good to me and I would rather give them my money not to mention the local cb shop led me astray on some of the other things early on, it was good I found this site.
Tim
CEF-634 |
Rover
Intermediate Member
Username: Rover
Post Number: 281
Registered: 2-2004
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 11:20 am: |
|
Alternate method is to NOT solder them holes. Here's how and why *I* don't.
Measure back enough to reach thru the entire connector. Trim the cover back TWICE the length of the body of the connector. Then cut the braid to about half that. Then remove enough of the dialectric so the center pin reaches thru the end of the center part with a bit to spare. Take a small nail or pick and unravel the braid all around the connector back to the remaining outer cover. If needed, slide the correct adapter ring on OVER the braid (Be sure not to omit the screw-on ring and let it slide down the cable out of the way). Fold the braid backwards OVER the outer cover. It may be tough, but it will go with a pair of pliers. If no adapter is needed, then screw the body of the PL connector on over the braid with pliers until the center wire(s) come out the other end of the connector. In both cases, you will end up with a tight connection with some of the braid sticking out the back of the back of the PL. Solder only the center pin!
Trim the remaining braid that's sticking out the back of the connector with a knife for a neat, professional-looking installation.
WHAAAAAAAAAT?? Yep, that's it. Why? Two reasons.
One is that almost invariably one of those---just ONE--pesky little braid wires will wriggle out of the bundle and find its way down to the center pin shorting out the whole business. Not always, but flexing cables, particularly mobile, will sometimes allow one of those little wires to get out. Now, the advantage of screwing the braid onto the connector is, it moves the braid farther AWAY from the center conductor by pulling the braid tightly far enough away that, even if if a little wire DID work loose, it won't contact the center and cause a short. Same way with the cable adapter because it screws on OVER the braid and pulls it backwards away from the "business" end of the thing. IOW, it isolates the two parts of the installation so the twain shall ne're meet!With the braid AND the center pin in the same "room" they like to get together and cause havoc. Yes, you can (and you should if you're gonna do it this way) tin the braid before soldering--which leads to the other reason I DON'T!
The second thing is, I'm stingy! I don't like throwing away perfectly good connectors. When you solder those durned little holes, you *may* not be able to get the thing off; IOW, you have to throw it away and install a new connector. The solder literally fuses to the body of the connector and, if you heat it enough to get it off, you'll ruin it in the process anyway! PHOOEY on that! So I screw the connector and adapters on and solder only the pin. If I ever DO have trouble with a connector (rare), it is a quick fix by de-soldering the pin, sliding the PL off and re-doing it. I've got some Amphenol connectors I bought in the 70's that I have removed, cleaned, and re-used with no ill effects.
Of course, if this doesn't suit you, that's fine. But it is quicker, less troublesome, and cheaper, too! I haven't soldered no durned braid holes since the 70's! ;)
73
|
Tech833
Intermediate Member
Username: Tech833
Post Number: 100
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2005 - 10:12 am: |
|
Hi Rover.
Good post. I am sorry, I need to point out that your method is flawed from an RF standpoint and a longevity one.
First of all, LMR400 braid is already tinned and solders very nicely. The LMR connectors are also pre tinned.
Second, not soldering the braid will lead to gross TVI and early failure. Here is why.
As the conductors age, they naturally build up an oxide over them. Oxides are insulative, not conductive. As the materials build oxide coating, they become more and more resistive to RF (an ohmmeter will still show nearly zero ohms, but RF will see resistance). As this gets worse, the RF sees the connector-to-shield junction as a diode. The diode will rectify some of the RF and create noise in the form of spurs of your RF carrier. Those spurs will land just about everywhere on about every frequency, and be carried up the cable shield to enter neighbors' TV sets, radios, cordless phones, etc. The RF hash will be modulated by your carrier and will sound just like you, which makes finding the culprit very easy for the neighbors.
Besides, unsoldered shields are just plain poor engineering practice. Some professional radio installations built using sound engineering practices over 50 years old continue to operate perfectly with no trouble or maintenance at all. How will your installation be working 50 years from now if you never touch a thing? I doubt your unsoldered shields will be making any contact anymore. |
Truckerdon
Junior Member
Username: Truckerdon
Post Number: 41
Registered: 5-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2005 - 10:37 am: |
|
Mr Sinker Sir. I'm getting a new truck this weekend. I will have tear apart my mickey mouse install and put in new truck. I've got the Mech to run a hot lead direct from the batteries to inside the cab. This will power My Kicker. Somehow I'll have to figuer out out to run coaxial to my mirror mounts with having a wire run through a vent.
I know I won't be online tomorrow. I hope to be rolling Tuesday. And one of these days I'll be able to hit you from Trucker Don Moble Base station.. The only thing missing is a beam and A99. hehe..
Take care
Don
Trucker Don
Canadian Coffee Hound
CEF 336 |
Keithinatlanta
Advanced Member
Username: Keithinatlanta
Post Number: 697
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2005 - 7:52 am: |
|
Truckerdon, what kind of new truck did you get?
Keith |
Cornbrown
Member
Username: Cornbrown
Post Number: 57
Registered: 7-2005
| | Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 12:47 pm: |
|
Hey Sinker.... Did you get the KLV back??? If you did how is it performing??? What numbers power wise are you getting?? Are you able to run it without TVi and RFI problems. |
Sinker
Intermediate Member
Username: Sinker
Post Number: 180
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 10:13 am: |
|
Cornbrown,
Guess my last post got rejected so I will try again.
I got the KLV back yesterday. I ran it all night to burn in the tubes or whatever they call it.
I am pushing it with 1.5 watts and on HI - HI2 getting about a 300 dead key and swinging maybe 600 hard to read the small meter on the 5000 watt scale I have. I have not seen anywhere near 1000 watts from the unit but may not be driving it with enough power either.
Now at 3.75 watts input I dead key 500 watts and swing about 750.
I may go ahead and turn up the radio to about 2.5 watts and run it like that.
I am OK with that as I do not want to fry the tubes or anything else for that matter. I will try not to use it to it's limits although I did test it that way to see what it would do.
Seriously considering an X-Force like you have - no tuning, no tubes and can be ran a bit harder and will have more output. Feel this may be safe as I am experiencing NO interference with any TV's in my house, not even the one I have in my office and am running the coax side by side for about a 3 foot distance. No interference with my computers, phones, baby monitor or home security video cameras either. I am not using a TVI or any other filter.
I am experiencing one issue though which has me a bit stumped. We have three of those TOUCH LIGHTS - you know the kind you touch and they turn on then you touch them again to turn them up higher and then again to go to the highest setting (3 way bulb) and then again to turn them off. Well whenever I key up WITH or WITHOUT the amp I turn the darn lights on - means I can't use the radio if anyone is in bed. I have a dedicated circuit and outlet for the radio equipment alone, it is running through a high end surge suppressor and then a UPS with a conditioned power output actually running from the battery so there is no issue with spikes or brown outs. Everything and I mean EVERYTHING is grounded yet still the same problem. Easy fix though - buy three more lamps - heheehe.
You can see the new station set up here: New Base Station Photos May take a little while to load as the thread has many pictures in it now.
Tim
CEF-634 |
1861
Intermediate Member
Username: 1861
Post Number: 374
Registered: 2-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 12:32 pm: |
|
MOST OF THOSE TOUCH LAMPS WILL COME ON WITH A STOCK RADIO . I UNPLUGGED ALL THE WIFE HAD IN HOUSE |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 1773
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 5:37 pm: |
|
you are probably close to the max with the kl1000, sinker. NEVER go by manufacturers claims. you are correct in the xforce being easier, but you will probably not see much difference in dead key, swing should be significantly higher though. enough to SEE a difference on the receive end? probably, a big difference? maybe, maybe not. i'd keep the dead key on the lower side. your base antenna is making up in gain the difference in my mobile's output, & i get out well. you should have NO problems with that output. remember, DX is NOT always possible, no matter the wattage. so don't let that be a reason to 'go bigger'. then a beam could give you 25 or more times ERP(effective radiated power). 500 watts will sound like 12500. yeah, the beam will help .
i have 12+ year old 'touch lights'. 5kw DEAD KEY in the driveway never affected them, 1200 dead key in the house didn't affect them either...the tv's weren't happy with the 5kw. neither were the neighbors |
Kid_vicious
Advanced Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 734
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 5:45 pm: |
|
sinker and 1861, the touch lamp interference is an age old problem and there are some cures for it if the XYL (ex-young lady/ wife) just cant bear to part with it.
do a search on the net for "touch lamps" or "touch lamp interference"
two good sites to try are the QRZ site and the ARRL site.
i would link you right to them but the post would get rejected.
matt |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 7798
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 5:57 pm: |
|
Kid_vicious,
There is No Problem with links to the ARRL web Site as nothing on the ARRL Web Site Violates the Copper Forum Rules unlike the QRZ Web Site which does Violate the Copper Forum Rules.
Or you can also Copy and Paste helpful articles as long as they are not copyrighted. 
The ONLY reason your post would be rejected is If your Post Violated the Copper Forum Rules.
The EXACT same Copper Forum Rules are in place now that was in place on September 21, 2004 when you joined the Copper Forum.
Nothing has changed.
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9OSN |
Kid_vicious
Advanced Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 735
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 6:16 pm: |
|
lon,
the bit about the post being rejected was not meant to be a jab at the forum rules or anything; i only wrote it so the guys would know why i didnt provide a link.
sorry if it sounded that way.
thanks for the clarification on post removal.
i was under the impression that the ARRL link was what got my post rejected last time. |
