| Author |
Message |
    
Bigfoot
| | Posted on Friday, August 24, 2001 - 3:03 pm: | 
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Ok I have a brand new Boomer 600 and on high or medium power the amp will not unkey. On low power it works fine. I am driving it with an Alan 2001 with variable am power and power input makes no difference. My s.w.r. is fine on a Wilson 1000 antenna.
The car is new , the alternator is rated at 95 amps.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
307 (307)
| | Posted on Friday, August 24, 2001 - 4:20 pm: |
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Simle problem....Make the jumper between the radio and the box at least 9 feet. This is common with RF getting back into the amp and it stays keyed. Let me know if it works for you please... |
Bigfoot
| | Posted on Friday, August 24, 2001 - 5:15 pm: |
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Thanks for the reply 307. Well I tried a longer jumper and no luck. Seems that the 6 footer works on low power, a 3 footer and the 9 footer would not even work on low power. The same problem on ssb. It is a small car and the amp is about 2 feet from the radio. I tried a different radio and no luck there either. |
Bigfoot
| | Posted on Friday, August 24, 2001 - 5:53 pm: |
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After more trial and error, I discovered the amp stays keyed even after I turn the radio off. But when I switch it to low power it "unkeys".
??? |
Bigfoot
| | Posted on Friday, August 24, 2001 - 7:24 pm: |
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More info on the Boomer. I brought the amp into my house and put it on my 35 amp power-supply. Now the amp will key on high and unkey, but it keys at 100 watts and backswings on am. But on low power it sticks on transmit, the oppisite of what it did in the car. Also the meter on my powersupply drops to 5 volts when I key the amp.
I stupidly purchased this amp from the "other guys" and they won't take it back.
Thanx again. |
HONKY TONK MAN 593 OUTTA NC!!
| | Posted on Friday, August 24, 2001 - 8:58 pm: |
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god i love my emperor 5010 radio just like that alan 2001. youll love the radio treat it right parts are getting harder to come by. |
025
| | Posted on Saturday, August 25, 2001 - 11:16 pm: |
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The most likely problem is the bias current is to high. If you are capable of minor soldering then you can fix the problem. Every one of these I have seen have this same problem. Email if you need the cure. rolab5@msn.com. Ron |
bambam_138
| | Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2001 - 6:47 am: |
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I don't know everything but i just passed my hamm tech test and am now studying for general class and have learned alot!! Try ferrite chokes!! I could not beleave the problems they can solve!Go to radio shack and they have ferrite chokes for datta lines that are in a plastic case that will clip right around your coax,they are about 4.99 each I have 0ne on the end of every coax end right behind the pl259 connectors,total 4 and solved all my problems! I run a RCI 6900FTB dead keying 40 watts and swinging 200 into a Dave Made 8 Pill( 8-2879's) SHEW!!! When you go this big there are alote of RF to deal with and the chokes did it ! Give it a try! Let me know if it works for you!! Good Luck and 73's to you all,,BamBam_138 |
cmm
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 06, 2001 - 9:12 pm: |
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i put a 6 ft and it has stopped sticking. when it's cold they stick i put a 3 in. fan to keep it cool i put two different meters on it and get the same 550 dead key and swings to 700 around ch20 am side band only goes to 600 and wont swing it did befor i went to a 6 ft cable the swr's are 1/1.3 and low power don't move much i don't know how accurate it is with power. it's to bad the price at the auction went up i was going to get another for my truck. i put mine on my 52 amp power supply and low was all that would work i was thinking about the 400 if it would work on base. my pyramid must be cheap the (power supply.) |
Long Bow
| | Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 8:28 pm: |
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Easy fix. If the amp will not unkey, you are losing ground. Make sure the coax you use does not use crimp on ends, but soldered PL-259 ends. Also, make sure that the shield is soldered on all four holes on the end. Next thing to try it to make sure that the coax is not coiled in a circle or loop. If you have access, try putting the coax in a figure 8. If this doesn't help, then it is your antenna connections. clean all oxidation from the connections, and make sure that your SWR is low. The jumper between the radio and amp is not the problem because of the amp staying keyed when the radio is off. (I can't see why that coax would cause a problem anyway.) If this doesn't take care of the problem, then shorten your ground lead on the amp. If it is 1 inch long, it is not too short. Do not connect it to your battery, unless your battery is the closest ground. Usually a bolt on the frame, or simply using a self tapping screw next to the amp works well. If this doesn't help, then you may need to connect a screw on your radio, amp, and antenna mount to ground. Make sure they are as short as possible. If this doesn't fix it, your amplifier needs to be worked on. Wait a second. Didn't I say this was an easy fix?  |
-=PEAKABOO=-
| | Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 2:44 pm: |
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Coiling your coax will not hurt anything, The reason the amp is staying keyed after you turn off the radio is because the ampflifier is oscillating, this is like RF feedback. |
-=PEAKABOO=-
| | Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 2:40 pm: |
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025 Wrote.
"The most likely problem is the bias current is to high. If you are capable of minor soldering then you can fix the problem. Every one of these I have seen have this same problem. Email if you need the cure. rolab5@msn.com. Ron"
The amplifier is going into osillation, The bias voltage on these amplifiers is not to high, it is the way the amplifier is layed out, to fix this problem the amplifier will need more negative feedback and more input swamping, that is the reason it unkeys when he puts it in low. I do not suggest transmiting with this amplifier until it is fixed, if the amplifier goes into oscillation you can do major damage..
-=PEAKABOO=- |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Monday, December 31, 2001 - 5:50 pm: |
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Call me stupid,but 95 amps is not enough to run this amp along with all the acsesories on a modern automobile let alone the headlights too. I have a GREY 50 I tried to run on a Pyrimid 10 amp power supply,it would quickly draw it down and cause the amp to self occilate exactly as you describe. I would suggest swapping out that 95 for at least a 150 amp alternator. |
Jyd
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 12:46 pm: |
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no way not a 150 amp alternater,i dont think thats the problem at all,you better ask 307 about it e-mail him.60 amps is plenty,i am not a tech but i am not dumb either. and the 35 amp power supply is not big enough to test it with.i dont know what to tell you but good luck |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2002 - 7:47 pm: |
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Look,hook a voltmeter across the power leades,if voltage drops more than one volt increase the size or gauge of the leades.And if you're already using 6-gauge then you need a bigger alt.I heard of one fellow had a vehicle with a non-metallic hood and 750 boot.He got rf feed back through the power cables,he ran them through metal conduit and grounded it at both ends and in the middle. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!! |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 6:37 pm: |
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Maybe I should just read the posts from now on. |
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