Copper Talk » Open Forum » Archived Messages » 2002 » 12/01/2002 to 12/31/2002 » 5 mile dummy load. « Previous Next »

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CM 3885
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I know some of you might be like "HUH?" but i used to know an old timer that worked on CB radios up until he passed in 1996 and he had what he called a "5 mile dummy load"
Ok, what it amounted to was a home made dummy load that he used to test radios when there wasnt anyone on the air locally. For instance he wanted to check the sound of the modulation audio on say, a cobra 148 GTL. He used another rig like say a cobra 2000 base he then hooked the "5 mile dummy load" to the back on the 2000. He then turned up the volume of the 2000 while trasnmitting on the 148. What it did was make the 148 sound like someone was actually talking on the antenna and the 2000 was sitting at a base 5 miles away in another town! This device he had actually worked like a champ! No squeals or feeback. He said the 5 mile load was only good to check the receive of a radio but it was not meant for transmitting. My qusetions is does anyone know how to bild one of these? I never had a chance to get the one off of him whe he passed but i always wanted to have on of my own.
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Jp1116
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 8:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It was out of a Secret CB book. I have it at home but don't remember the number right off. (Maybe 15????)I can scan it and send it to you if you would like.
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ChillyDog
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

CM 3885,

I can think of two possibilities here: a regular dummy load or an in-line attenuator.

On my bench I'll sometimes use a dummy load to evaluate transmit audio quality. There is enough leakage using a dummy load that a 4 watt transmitter will put an S2 or S3 signal into a nearby receiver sitting on the same bench. Just about right for many of my purposes. If you need further transmit signal reduction you can short the receiver input.

You could also make or buy a 20dB or 30dB attenuator. You would have to make sure the power handling capability of the attenuator is adequate to handle the transmit power. 20dB of attenuation is a power reduction of 100 times, 30dB gives 1000 times. Typically, 20dB is about 3 S units, 30dB is about 5. Hook the attenuator between the transmitter and receiver using coax jumpers.

In either case, use headphones on the receiver to avoid setting up a feedback loop and generating a squeal.

Best Regards,

Bob
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Marconi
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I don't think there was anything special about that article that made the simulation = 5 miles. It was just a little cheap homemade dummy load. Maybe it was suitable for transmitting maybe not, but if you get yourself a good modestly priced dummy load, you can do the same thing and have yourself a good load that you could transmit into for testing also.

If you just want to do this, you can probably transmit from the radio with the antenna and hear on the receiver radio with nothing in the antenna jack at all. If that does not work for you, attach a jumper (maybe 6' long or (>) to the back of the receiver radio and that should improve the response a bit.

In either case, do not transmit on the radio set up to be the receiver, you could damage the rig.
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307
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Selman Enterprizes in Texas (Secret CB) used to make the "20 mile" version of what you are talking about..It was called the "Bandit CB Tester". I was in fact an oscillator (say channel 21) with an output of a few microvolts that was adjustable so that you could "simulate" listening to a radio 20 miles away...Cool little thing..Today you can do the same thing with a B&K 2040 CB Signal Generator...

307
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Jp1116
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 5:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It ended up being #5 and was called the five mile simulator. I'm sure there was nothing magical about the five miles, probably just a guess as to what the drop in signal strength was on the receiving unit. You could change the value of the resistors to get the effect you want. Using a real dummy load and monitoring on another receiver is probably the best way to go and the dummyload would be useful for other uses. The signal generator is great(and expensive)for working on receivers but it won't allow you to monitor the transmitted signal you want to hear. If you still want the info, email me and I will send it.
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CM 3885
Posted on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 1:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey JP send me the docs so i can make me one of those cool 5 mile dummy loads..
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Jp1116
Posted on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 5:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Email me at jp1116@netzero.net and I will sent it to you. If you did already I think it got deleted.
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bruce
Posted on Sunday, December 15, 2002 - 8:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I looked at your drawing it is exactly what i figured and should work. NOW it should be built in a SHELDED box to obtain the drop you need in the ARRL hanbooks atenuators can be found and will do exactly what your tring to do with this one. One more comment it will not prevent audio feedback if you have enough mike gain it will happen.
Bruce
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CM 3885
Posted on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

JP1116
got the docs but i cannot print it because it is too big! LOL
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bruce
Posted on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 7:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I built a 2 meter one to test my low noise preampa it was -120 db and was built in several bud boxes fed with double shield coax. STILL i had to place one radio in a sheilded box with bypassing to get THAT much atuation. some on the amps had .4db noise figures and would with a good radio behind them hear signals down close to .1 UV at 144.200. If anyone builds one of these remember to use CARBON resistors even though they are noisey at rf and SHEILD the input from the output and always use GOOD coax a MUST!
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Jp1116
Posted on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 7:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Try using Microsoft Photo Editor and you can downsize them. I suppose that would be true for most editing programs, that's just the one I use. If you want one by snail mail, send an email to the address above and I will send it out. I found an old 2 pill amp that I'm going to gut and use to put mine in. Ready made case and SO-239's already installed, how lazy can you get?
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CM 3885
Posted on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 4:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeah ill give that a try there JP and let you know AOK!
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Jp1116
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2002 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well I threw one of these together real quick today. I had to leave out the 1.5meg ohm resistor to keep the signal strength down. So I basically have two 8 watt dummy loads that happen to be in the same enclosure left. I still have to turn the RF gain down some.
Not sure if the 8 watts is enough without some way to dissapate heat. I think I will keep it but just use some 5 watt resistors that I have in series/parallel to get the rating up a little more.
Probably would be more practical to buy a 50 or 100 watt load to use on the second radio but this was cheap to try. If anybody else tries it let me know.
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bruce
Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2002 - 4:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

QUESTION ......

Where they SHELDED from each other???
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Jp1116
Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2002 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had a piece of aluminum in between the SO-239's and soldered the resistors straight from the input to the chassis. This is an aluminum case if that makes a difference. I even unhooked the second radio from the box and moved it into another room with no wire or antenna attached and I still got a good signal. I do as someone mentioned above and just transmit into a dummyload and listen on another radio. I just got curious when it was mentioned and remembered the drawing and thought I would give this a try and see what happened, I needed a small dummy load with a pickup for a counter anyway.