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Hoosier Cardina
| | Posted on Thursday, August 29, 2002 - 12:59 pm: | 
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I was interested in the 60012 high drive to run behind a 100 watt rig like a 3500 100 watter. I -DO NOT- talk on the "supper bowl" or anything like that but i just want a little extra when times get tough. Does anyone run or have ranned the 60012 high drive base amp? What is the max pep that it will do? How well do they work on SSB? |
Highlander
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 8:28 am: |
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The only one I ever heard on the air sounded like doodoo on SSB- It had a bad hum and audible distortion. I would check out the KLV line of base amps if I were looking for a little extra. The 1000p would probably make you very happy with that radio. |
Hoosier Cardina
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 4:32 pm: |
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Freaking figures........................ |
Taz
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 4:35 pm: |
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Well, xforce are ok in my opinion. I have heard them out here but I dont like them at all. |
Hoosier Cardina
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 7:25 pm: |
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Well i guess ill just keep my palomar 300A then if i cant get a new amp that isnt junk like everything out there new now... This is so frustrating! I asked a few guys that know about the KLV amps that from what i gather they are not that great either. I cannot run a 3-500Z amp because i cant run 220 volts. So anything that runs 220 is OUT of the question... No dice here i guess!!!! |
Hoosier Cardina
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 7:28 pm: |
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......... Maybe what ill di is buy another Astron 70 amp suppier and get a TX star sweet 16.... I suppose someone will pipe up on this forum and say they are "junky" too...... |
Taz
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 8:00 pm: |
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sure you can!!!!!!!!!!
HOOK IT UP TO YOUR WASHER/DRYER OUTLET!!!!!!!!!
IVE DONE IT!
I did it when a friend brought over a 4k amp to my house. We fired it up tuned it up and it worked fine off of it!
I like the sweet 16's! |
fader
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 8:09 pm: |
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hoosier
whether someone has a good experience with a radio or an amp usually depends on their setup. as an example if you drive an amp with a slightly distorted signal the amp will amplify the distortion to the point it sounds horrible on the air. the person will think the amp causes the signal to be distorted and claims the amp is junk. if 100 people use something and 2 of them call it junk I would go with the 98. just because 1 or 2 people call it junk don't think it's junk. if most of the people call it junk then it's a good bet it's junk. |
Hoosier Cardinal
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 9:11 pm: |
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Yeah right! The washer and dryer are clear at the end of the freaking house here so no dice on that idea! LOL. |
Taz
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 10:17 pm: |
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SO! then re-wire it to your radio room! Thats what im going to do when I get my big amp. |
Tech671
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 6:23 am: |
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The 600-12 I owned worked and sounded great. Driven with 150w SSB was crystal clear and does about 14-1500w pep. You do need a dedicated 10/2 40a 110v circuit to supply ample current supply to it, as well as ample ground.
If you do not already have a dedicated line as described above, you will have to run a line anyway, go ahead and run a 220 dedicated line. Then you can run a 220 amp in the future if you so desire. If you don't mind the loading and tuning then a 2-tube Z box would be the better value, just make sure you get a good one. If you like plug and play the 600-12 is hard to beat.
I've heard alot of setups that sounded terrible on the air, 9 times out of 10 it's the installation or settings not the equipment. |
Highlander
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 10:56 am: |
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The 1000p is a far better choice than that overpriced, inefficient, garage built x-0006008.3 cubed or whatever. I know several people who have KLV tube amps and they are a great value. They are manufactured by a REAL electronics company, RM Italy, who also have contracts with NATO and other government / commercial entities. Definitely not junk, freinds. |
Hoosier Cardinal
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 2:03 pm: |
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You guys DONT understand! I CANNOT run 220 because I -DO NOT- own the place I live in! I -WILL NOT- and CANNOT run 220 volts besides i dont want to hassle it! |
Taz
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 2:22 pm: |
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hmm
Then I guess an amp is out of the question. |
Taz
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 4:00 pm: |
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Ok "EXTENISION CORD" |
dale
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 5:59 pm: |
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in some cases its all in how you run them theres 2 different kinds a low drive and high drive. the low drive only handles up to 4 watts after tha it gets distorted or distorted a high drive only handles about 15to 20 watts deadkey these are all on am i run a 350highdrive variable with my 2990 works excellent no distortion |
10ring
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 10:00 pm: |
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I dont get it why the 220v I know some one who has a drake with 2 3-500z and he told me that thier was a diagram inside the power supply to wire it for 220 or 110 I was thinking about buy this amp but changed my mind for now and i'm getting a klv-1000. what the heck if I change my mind i'll need it to drive with. and the pre-amp |
Taz
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 10:40 pm: |
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Well,
220v because its more of a commercial grade. |
Hoosier Cardinal
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 12:47 am: |
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Well geezzz i guess ill have to look into the KLV 1000P then... LOL. I guess if i get one and dont like it then i can always sell it! |
409
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 4:35 am: |
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Most of the transformers will wire for 110V, but they run cooler and don't dim your lights as much on 220V. |
Scrapiron63
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 10:43 am: |
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Some of the amps running 2-500Z's, like the heathkit 220, can be wired for 110 or 220, but the 25 or 30 amps they pull, really overloads the standard household circuit on 110 volts. Bedrooms can legally be wired with # 14 wire, good for just 15 amps, the rest of the circuits are wired with #12, which is good for 20 amps. When you put a 25-30 amp draw on one of those circuits, your gonna blow fuses or kick breakers. If you increase the fuse/breaker size, the wire will start heating up. Lots of houses just have a 100 amp service, divided into 2-50 amp legs, with that extra 25-30 amp pull on one leg, along with other lights and whatever else already on that leg, your gonna dim lights, and even overload the main breaker. Take that same 30 amp pull, wire it for 220, that divides the pull by 2, with 15 amps on each leg, you want notice it. Lots of the old "CB" amps pulled too much for a standard circuit, I remember lots of people having problems running the old Maco 750s in houses with poor wiring. To be safe, nothing should be used on a standard household 110v circuit that pulls over 15 amps. Thats why so many houses have burned because of portable electric heaters, some of those things pull over 20 amps. I used 110/220 because the thread was running with those numbers. However, household current was raised many years ago, first to 115/230, then to 120/240 volts. To assure 120 volts out on the end of the lines, most power companies have the transformers around 125 volts, with spikes even above that. Thats the reason you pop so many light bulbs, some of them are just rated at 115 volts. And those spikes are sometime the reason for unexplained failures in other electrical equipment. |
10ring
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 1:48 pm: |
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Scrapiron63 I never stoped to even think about what size wire was in my house. I do know I have a 200 amp service here (every thing is electric)this is some thing every one needs to pay attention to in this world of plug a play. I certanly dont want those big red trucks parked in front of my house or what would be left of it.good answer to my question besides to run a new outlet is cheap just time consuming. |
Taz
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 2:02 pm: |
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Scrapiron,
There is a really good friend of mine out here who has several big amps and has always said to NEVER take a big z tube amp and convert it to run on 110 volts. He think its stupid because they arent designed to be ran that way.
Hoosier cardinal,
You dont own the house, so what.
I Dont think the owner of the house is going to care if your adding another outlet to his house for more convenience.
But thats my 2 cents
Taz |
Scrapiron63
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 3:00 pm: |
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That's my thinking Taz, anything that pulls very many amps, and that can be wired for 240 will run more efficient than on 120. Most of the big amps, like the Henrys will only wire for 240 volts. |
Taz
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 4:10 pm: |
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Yep.......
Taz |
B1kshad0w
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 11:16 pm: |
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If your going to spend that much, get a QRO amplifier. |
Taz
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 1:22 am: |
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hehe |
Hoosier Cardinal
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 11:57 am: |
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Naaaa I know its not my house but i dont want to run another wire. im just too lasy to do it thats my problem... Ill just run what i have for now and be happy with it.... |
HoosierCardinal
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 - 3:22 am: |
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You know that KLV 1000P is looking more and more attractive to me every day..... LOL |
Phineas
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 - 8:18 am: |
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Its called Heathkit SB200-220, etc...., Swan. You can usually find one of those tube amps floating around for 300 - 500 dollars. They run on 120v, and put out 1kw. These old amps are available all over the net. I have even converted them for 6 meters for people.
Phineas |
HoosierCardinal
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 - 12:12 pm: |
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Uhh yeah.. Ive heard of them. But i have no real desire to own one though. |
HoosierCardinal
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 - 12:27 pm: |
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problem is i wanted a 220 once but here were i am i dont wanna bother with hooking up 220 volts to get the most out of the amp. besides id have to get a foot pedal keyer and bother with getting an electrician and all and well, im to lazy to do all that. LOL |
2600
| | Posted on Thursday, October 03, 2002 - 1:52 am: |
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It's all really about POWER. You know, Volts times Amps. Building codes don't allow using wire any larger than number 12 to feed a 120V socket, fused (breakered) for 20 Amps. 20 Amps times 120 Volts is 2400 Watts. Since most 120 Volt outlets are fed with number 14, your current limit is now 15 Amps. Now you are stuck with 1800 Watts that you can DRAW out of the wall. Since most base amplifiers are roughly 50% efficient overall, this limits you to half that, or 900 watts average OUTPUT power. The 240-Volt outlet provides TWICE as many WATTS per Amp of draw. This means that the same 15 Amp circuit (at 240 Volts) will let you draw (in theory) 3600 Watts out of the wall. Most 240-Volt outlets are wired for more current than this. Folks who use an outlet meant for a range or dryer have wire large enough for 35 or 50 Amps.
The only sure-fire method to run a Drake L4 or Heathkit SB220, or similar amp on 120 Volts is to keep the drive level down. Yeah, turn down the drive, and you turn down the current draw out of the wall.
There's a practical rule I tell my customers to follow: Look at the color of the filament glow. On a 3-500Z you can see a yellow-white glow from inside the tube as soon as you turn on the power. That's the tungsten filament. Watch that glow when you key and modulate. If you see the color and brightness of that filament glow darken or fade, you're driving it too hard, causing the line voltage at your outlet to drop under the load. Follow this rule, and - surprise- you'll be running about half the power the amp would normally do wired to a 240V circuit. Ya can't push it down the coax if you can't suck it out of the wall in the first place.
73 |
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