Copper Talk » Open Forum » Archived Messages » 2002 » 08/01/2002 to 08/31/2002 » Yaesu with an earache « Previous Next »

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xlaxx
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 2:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Yaesu FT101E. When I set the pre-select knob to get the best power (15 on the dial), I lose my ears. But when I turn down the pre-select (10 on the dial) to receive the best, I lose my power. What is happening here????
Also, my noise blanker isn't really effective at all. Just nothing but hash, even when switched on.
What do I need to do to get this rig hearing and sounding good???? I don't want to send the radio to the Yaesu repair center in CA.
Thanks for the help!
xlaxx
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DeadlyEyes
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Before you go too far try the obvious. Get out the instruction book and read the section on how to tune the radio thoroughly, not just briefly, thoroughly.

Check to be sure the tube bias is as it should be per the manual and tune exactly as the manual states/step by step making sure every switch is in its proper place.

Most of the time the trouble will lie in a switch being in the wrong position or an instruction skipped or just incorrectly performed.

And I agree by the way with the shipping to CA. An FT101 weighs about 75 lbs. Try sending that much weight via UPS.

ONE MORE IMPORTANT THING:
If you do ship the radio be damn sure to double box the radio in some sturdy/heavey duty boxes using tons of styro padding and some good quality sealing tape. DO NOT SKIMP on the packaging material. I, once, shipped my and the UPS dropped it and I,me,myself had to pay over 350 for repairs AND a new radio case. The insurance refused to cover because I used a thin walled box and I did not double box with lots of styro peanuts.
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xlaxx
Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 1:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Deadly-
I've been through the manual and think I may have a frequency/alignment problem???? Do you own one of these rigs. They are really complicated. I was hoping Bruce, 307, might be able to provide some feedback. email me at uglyatc@yahoo.com
Thanks
xlaxx
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Hoosier Cardinal
Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 2:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ive owned 3 of them and they all were kinda funky acting on AM receive wise so thats why i got rid of them. they arent really all that great on the CB bands for receive but they do talk good! When you tune the preselect you tune it for the max noise on the band then peak tune the other knobs for max carrier and then back the carrier knob down until you get like about 25 to 30 watts carrier ( i always used the 1-4 carrier to swing ratio when i ran my 101EE 30 watts carrier 120 watts swing) but NEVER exceed 30 watts carrier when on AM. On SSB they will do about 150 or more depending on SWR and antenna.
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xlaxx
Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hoo-
Thanks for the input! I bought the Yaesu because it talks really well!!!! My friend has one and he walks the dog like nobody's business... it's like he's sitting there yelling in your ear close. SERIOUSLY!! You're right though, they are funky, and I was told that they perform a little poorly on AM but I was hoping to fix that. Anymore recommendations are welcome. How about a mic??? Turner +2, Echomax 2000??
Thanks
xlaxx
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XLAXX
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 3:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well I finally had a guy look into this rig and he states that the voltage to the voice clarifier circuit is bad. How can I get parts for this sucker??? I like this radio. How about that 307 or Bruce out there??? Who wants to help me work on this radio.... I'm bummin right now!!! Please... I'm dying here
Thanks
XLAXX

Moderator558 Note :
What model?

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XLAXX
Posted on Tuesday, August 20, 2002 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Moderator558-
The Yaesu is a FT101E, has the voice processor in it. The Preselect knob is really touchy and I lose ears or power when adjusting for both.

Here's the kicker---
The guy that was helping me with it, ran it thru his BK Signal Generator and the Yaesu blew it out. The Yaesu does about 110W or so barefoot, so I guess he wasn't thinking when he was running it. It was totally an accident and BK has got the generator running now but the tech wasn't too happy with the situation....

Still up in arms over this thing,... man I paid good money for this radio too and it's just a massive paperweight on the bench!!! Could really use some guidance on this piece if you know anybody.

Thanks
XLAXX
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2600
Posted on Tuesday, August 20, 2002 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Most of this kind of "unstable" behavior responds to cleaning the silver tarnish (CAREFULLY) from rotating contacts on the the 12 (count 'em, twelve) decks of the BAND switch.
The "have to choose between receiver peak and transmit peak" problem is caused by changing tubes (finals, drive) and NOT re-peaking the "calliope", the three slug-tuned coils linked to the Preselect control. There's a good chance that the Neutralization control has been thrown out of whack, as well. Changing final tubes will do that, if the new ones came from a different assembly line than the pair that it had been previously set to match.
To check neutralization: Tune the radio for max carrier in "Tune" mode like it says in the manual. You will need an inline wattmeter, and preferably a dummy load, but an antenna with a low SWR will probably work. Set the meter switch to the center "Ic" position. Rock the "Plate" control either side of where the wattmeter reading peaks. You should be able to see the internal meter fall, then rise as you turn it. This "Reverse Peak" is called a "dip", and you want to see that DIP occur at EXACTLY THE SAME POSITION OF THE PLATE knob as the wattmeter peak. If the knob shows the wattmeter peak at one position of the Plate knob, and the dip occurs at a different position of the knob, the finals are NOT neutralized, and further "peaking" may make it weird and more unstable. One note about the "neutralization" screw in the final cabinet. The slotted metal end of this adjustment screw is HOT WITH about 300 VOLTS! If you get brave and decide to turn this one, a tool with an insulated shaft (and handle) is an absolute must. A bare metal screwdriver shaft will touch the grounded rim of the access hole and get you snaps, sparks,and maybe even smoke.
See if the thing ACTS like it is neutralized. If it is, say so. The rest of what you need could be fairly simple.
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XLAXX
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 3:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

2600-
Thanks for the comments. Not too thrilled about the 300V part. I emailed you, please respond.
XLAXX